HOW TO REPLACE AIRCON BELT

NOW TO REPLACE AIRCON BELT

THIS PROCEDURE IS EXACTLY FOR THE 1999 CRV MODEL

THIS BELT'S IS STRETCHED BY A TENSIONER PULLEY SO THAT  IT MAY BE CONTROLLED TO THE CORRECT TENSION .

THIS TENSIONER HAS TWO BOLTS:
      FIRST BOLT  IS  ABOUT 3 INCHES IN LENGTH AND IS ABOUT 10mm in diameter .  Its head is squared sized 7mm , it is a full threaded nut, it has a lock nut , 10 mm in size.   this bolt is the one that makes the tensioner pulley to move up and down the pulley itself so that the belt attained the correct tension or to lessened the tension of the belt respectively.  This is situated almost 2 inches away from the pulley in your left.  .
     SECOND BOLT  IS ABOUT 2 inches in lenght , its head is also squared type having a size of 12mm.  this bolt is the one that fixed the pulley itself so it will not moved.. this is situated at almost the bottom of the pulley on your left.

PROCEDURE

1.  to gain access to these two nuts, remove the power steering plastic container by just pulling it upward.
2.  remove the nut located a top the power steering box,  12mm
3.  remove the nut at the side of the power steering box  located at the lower side at the back of the power steering.
4. have that power steering box hanged upward so you can gain access to the two nuts.
5. loosen the SECOND BOLT that holds the tensioner pulley.
6.  loosen the LOCK NUT of the FIRST BOLT counterclockwise 
7.  loosen the FIRST BOLT , counter clockwise, the pulley will now moved downward.and make the belt to got loose.
8.  remove the belt from the compressor and the crankshaft pulley .
9.  go to down under the front of the engine,  there is a big clamp ( about 4 inch in length) it has two nuts 17mm , remove these nuts. this big clamp will not be totally removed because it is attached to the engine but there will be a space to be opened so that you can pass that belt out of its place.
10.  insert now the new belt to the top of that big clamp.
11.  re installed the two 17mm bolts.
12.  wrap around the belt to the crankshaft pulley, to tensioner pulley and to the aircon pulley.
13.  tighthen the first bolt , untill the belt is of the same tension as before, or about 1/4 inch play.
14.  tighten the  second bolt.
15.  put back the power steering belt if it was displaced.
16.  slightly tighten the 12mm nut of the power steering box located at the top side .
17.  slightly tighten the 12mm nut of the power steering box located at the side of the steering box.
18.  get a small steel bar and try to insert it to the body of steering box and pull that bar outward so that the power steering pulley attained its  right tension,  THEN TIGHTHEN NOW THE NUT AT THE SIDE AND THE TOP SIDE .
19.  put back the power steering fluid container.
20.  start the engine,  run it at about , 2000 rpm, if there is squeaking sound , maybe the belt is still loose.
21.  while engine runs, try to maneuver the steering wheel, if it is hard to steer, then the steering belt is loose, increase its tension.

HOW TO REMOVE YOUR CALIPER PISTON

HOW TO REMOVE THE WHOLE CALIPER AND FINALLY REMOVE THE BIG PISTON INSERTED ON THE CALIPER.

THIS PISTON LOOKS LIKE A SMALL MUG OR CUP ABOUT 2 1/2 INC IN RADIUS OR DIAMETER , INSERT IN THE CALIPER HOLE THE SIZE OF IT.

THIS HOLE HAS AN O RUBBER O RING ON ITS SLOT TO PREVENT THE FLUID FROM LEAKING AT THE EDGE OF THE PISTON.

THIS CALIPER IS WHERE THE BIG PISTON IS PLACED.   THIS PISTON IS THE ONE THAT MOVES BACK AND FORTH THE MOMENT YOU PRESS THAT BRAKE PEDAL  TO PRESS THE DISC TO THE SURFACE OF THE BRAKE DISC TO STOP IT FROM ROTATING  AND FINALLY STOPPING  THE CAR.

THIS PISTON MOVES FORWARD OR OUTWARD BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE OF THE BRAKE FLUID ENTERING THE CALIPER AND THIS PISTON STOPS OUTWARD MOVE BECAUSE IT TOUCHES THE FACE OF THE DISC PAD.  THIS PISTON MOVES INWARD OR BACKWARD AFTER YOU HAVE RELEASED YOUR BRAKE PEDAL.

DUE TO DIRT, RUST THAT ENTERS THE  PISTON,  THERE WILL COME A TIME THAT  THE PISTON WILL STUCK UP AND HENCE IT EITHER WILL NOT MOVE OUTWARD OR IT WILL NOT MOVE BACKWARD .

IF IT WILL NOT MOVE OUTWARD DUE TO DIRT OR BEING STUCK UP , YOU WILL HAVE A WEAK BRAKE.

IF IT WILL NOT MOVE BACKWARD, THAT MEANS THE PISTON IS ALWAYS PRESSING THE DISC PAD TO THE DISC BRAKE  AS IF YOU ARE ALWAYS IN A BRAKING MODE AND YOU WILL EXPERIENCE  TWO THINGS.

                  1.   THE CAR SEEMS TO  HESITATE TO MOVE FASTER.
                   2.   THE  DISC BRAKE WILL OVERHEAT  AND YOU WILL NOTICE IT IF YOU TOUCH YOUR  WHEEL RIM , IT IS TOO HOT.

TO CHECK  THIS TWO SITUATION,  TRY TO LIFT THE ONE SIDE OF THE WHEEL ( IF FOUR WHEEL DRIVE , LIFT ALSO THE REAR OF FRONT TIRE) .    MANUALLY ROTATE THE WHEEL, IF IT'S DIFFICULT TO TURN IT MANUALLY THEREFORE  THE PISTON IS STUCK UP CLOSE. TRY THIS TO ALL THE FOUR WHEELS.

HOW TO REPAIR OR CLEAN OR FREE UP THE CALIPER AND THE PISTON.

1.  REMOVE THE TIRE,  MAKE SURE THAT SIDE OF THE WHEEL IS  SAFELY SECURED BY ANOTHER SUPPORT STAND, DO NOT RELY ON YOU JACK ITSELF.
2.  REMOVE THE NUT OF THE CALIPER ITSELF , IT IS NORMALLY A 14mm nut, easily visible and accessible,  normally there are two nuts securing this caliper,  one nut is screwed on its mother assembly and the other is not screwed on the mother assembly but is only a shaft ( no thread) so that this caliper can be swing back and forth.   be cautious because the threaded nut may be at the top or at the bottom of the caliper ( car design differs to each other ).  you might try to forcefully remove the nut like one where in fact it is the swinging shaft and you cannot loosen it.  try to  push back the rubber booths of this nut to uncover if  it is a shaft or nut.  if it is a nut,  that means the other nut is the one that you have to loosened and removed.
3. after removing the nut,  swing down or up this caliper assembly.
4.  press continually your brake pedal until the PISTON  has totally come out of its shell
5.  the piston may not totally get out of the its shell, so it would be necessary to use manual force using a tinsel or  a plier or a hammer etc etc.
6.  if it come out,  the brake fluid will come out also, so to save that fluid  put a small container .
7.  get a vice grip , clip it to the brake hose ,  remove now the brake hose bolted to the rear of the caliper.  remove also the bleeder valve.
8.  try to move outward or swing  this caliper which is secured by the shaft mentioned above ( not bolted anyway)
9.  remove now the caliper assembly by forcing the shaft to come out..
10. clean the piston using soap, or  kerosene , by using thin sand paper to remove any rust.
11.  remove the  O  RING  placed  in this  caliper hole. Clean also the big hole where this piston is positioned ,  using a thin sand paper to remove any rust and make its wall to be smooth.
12. clean also the slot where the O RING is placed.
13.  put the new O RING TO THE SLOT .
14.  PUT THE GREASE ON THE WALL OF THE CALIPER AND ALSO ON THE FACE OF THE PISTON ITSELF.
14. a.  put the rubber booths on the slot around the piston.
15.  INITIALLY POSITION THE PISTON TO THE MOUTH OF THE CALIPER.  NORMALLY YOU CANNOT INSERT THAT PISTON BY MERE USING HAND PRESSURE.
16.  GET A BIG PIPE AND A HAMMER.
17.  PUT THAT PIPE INSIDE THE HOLE OF THE PISTON THEN HAMMER THE OTHER END OF THE PIPE TO PUSH THE PISTON TO THE  CALIPER HOLE.  MAKE SURE THE PISTON IS IN PERFECTLY STRAIGHT POSITION  when hammering it.
18. put the  booths to the slot provided in the piston.
19.  PUT BACK THE CALIPER ASSEMBLY .
20.  PUT BACK THE HOSE, AND THE BLEEDER
21, REMOVE THE VICE GRIP.
22.  PUT FLUID ON THE BRAKE MASTER CONTAINER CUP.
23.  INSTALL THE WHEEL.
24.  START THE ENGINE AND TRY TO PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, IF YOU FEEL THE BRAKE PEDAL IS SPONGY THAT MEANS THE AIR ENTER THE SYSTEM.
25.  YOU HAVE TO BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM.


HOW TO BLEED THE SYSTEM.

1.  START THE ENGINE, HAVE SOMEONE PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR SAY 5 TIMES THEN TELL HIM TO STAY HIS FEET ON A BRAKING POSITION BY NOT LIFTING HIS FOOT.
2.  LOOSEN THE BLEEDING NUT,  A BUBBLE IS EXPECTED TO COME OUT.
3.CLOSE THE BLEEDER NUT,  HAVE THE PEDAL BE PUMP AGAIN THEN STOP PUMPING , THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER.  PUT FLUID AGAIN ON THE MASTER CUP.
4. DO THIS UNTIL A FULL FLUID COME OUT OF THE BLEEDER AND AT THE SAME TIME THE BRAKE PEDAL DOES NOT GOES TO THE FLOOR AND NO SPONGY FEELING.

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DISC PAD

OF COURSE,  EVERY VEHICLE MAY HAVE DIFFERENT CONSTRUCTION OR DESIGN ON ITS  CALIPER BRAKE ASSEMBLE BUT  DISC TYPE BRAKE HAS THE SAME  PRINCIPLE.

THE  REPLACEMENT FOR THE DISC PAD IS A VERY SIMPLE JOB.

1.  MAKE SURE YOU CAR IS IN HANDBRAKE POSITION IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE FRONT CALIPER .., IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE REAR CALIPER , PLACE THE SHIFTING LEVER TO ANY GEAR POSITION..
2.  REMOVE  THE  TIRE WHERE THE DISC PAD IS LOCATED .
3.  NOW ,  THE CALIPER TYPE BRAKE SYSTEM HAS TWO PARTS:

                A.  THE FIRST PART IS BOLTED BY TWO NUTS (  17 mm ) TO THE BASE PLATE
                B THE SECOND PART IS  BOLTED TO THE FIRST PART BY ONE BOLT ( 14mm) either at the top of the first part or at the bottom of the first part, so it depends on the design. THE other end of this second part HAS A SHAFT ABOUT  4 INCH IN LENGHT AND IS INSERT TO THE FIRST PART. IT LOOKS LIKE A BOLT , SO DONT TRY TO USE  A  WRENCH TO REMOVE IT BECAUSE IT IS NOT A NUT, IT IS ONLY A SHAFT..   THIS SECOND PART IS WHERE THE  BIG PISTON IS PLACE .  THE SECOND PART IS THE ONE THAT SECURED THE TWO DISC PAD IN ITS POSITION.

4.  REMOVE THE NUT  OF THE FIRST PART THAT IS BOLTED TO THE FIRST PART  ( 14mm or 17mm ) located either at the top or at the bottom. This bolt is covered by a rubber booths.
5.  you can now SWING THE SECOND PART.  REMEMBER THAT THE  ONE END OF THE SECOND PART IS NOT BOLTED BUT IS ONLY SECURED BY A SHAFT TO THE FIRST PART.

6. HAVING REMOVED THE NUT OF THE SECOND PART, USING A BIG SCREW DRIVER , INSERT IT TO THE OPEN HOLE OF THE SECOND PART AND TRY TO DISPLACE OR SWING  IT FROM THE FIRST PART.   THIS SECOND PART WILL NOT BE TOTALLY REMOVED FROM THE FIRST PART BECAUSE IT IS STILL SECURED BY A SHAFT THAT IS WHY YOU CAN SWING IT BACK AND FORTH.

7. AFTER DISPLACING THE SECOND PART, OR SWINGING THE SECOND PART ,   THE DISC PADS WILL NOW BE EXPOSED.
8.  THIS IS SIMPLY INSERTED ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DISC BRAKE ITSELF.
9.   SIMPLY REMOVE THAT TWO DISC PAD  IT BY HAND,   NOTE OF ITS  ORIGINAL POSITION.
10.  REPLACE IT BY THE NEW DISC PADS.  
11.  SWING  BACK THE SECOND PART AND PUT BACK THE NUT.


THERE IS A POSSIBILITY THAT THE WHEN PUTTING BACK THE SECOND PART , YOU MAY FIND IT DIFFICULT TO EXACTLY PUT BACK THE SECOND PART BECAUSE THE PISTON END IS TOUCHING THE DISC PAD OR THE DISC PAD IS BLOCKING THE THE PISTON END.

THIS MAY HAPPEN BECAUSE THE PISTON END HAS  LITTLE BIT MOVED OUTWARD BECAUSE OF THE DISC BECAME THIN .

IF THIS HAPPENS , DO THIS.

1.  GET A  C CLAMP .
2.  INSERT THE FIXED END OF THE C CLAMP  AT THE BACK OF THE SECOND PART AND THE MOVING THREADED PART ON THE INNER END OF THE PISTON.
3.  GET A  VISE GRIP ,  CLIP IT HARD TO THE BRAKE HOSE  .LOOSEN THE BLEEDER NUT OR EVEN THE  BIG NUT OF THE BRAKE HOSE BOLTED TO THE SECOND PART, THIS IS TO MAKE THE PUSHING OF THE PISTON BACK  EASIER BECAUSE THE AIR CAN EASILY COME OUT
4.  TURN NOW THE C CLAMP CLOCKWISE TO PUSH BACK THE PISTON .
5.  PUT BACK THE NUT OF THE HOSE, AND THE BLEEDER VALVE.
6. REMOVE THE VISE GRIP.
7.  PUT BACK THE SECOND PART TO ITS ORIGINAL POSITION.

simple way of knowing if GAS O SPARK

the simplest way of checking whether gas/fuel or spark is the reason for a car engine failure to start.

to determine if the whole electrical system is producing an electrical current to reach the tip of your spark plug so that the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber will produce, here is a very simple way.

Simply, remove all the spark plug cable from the spark plug then put or insert a spark plug on each and every end of the spark cable ( you can remove the spark plug on your engine), then start the car, you should see a heavy spark on every tip of the spark plug, in which case you can assume that the computer is functional and is triggering the IGNITER  to send a signal to the IGNITION COIL to the rotor to the spark plug cable to the spark plug.
If while you are looking the every tip of the spark , you notice that all has no spark coming out of the tip of the spark plug, then , the  SPARK PLUG CABLE, THE ROTOR, THE IGNITION COIL , THE IGNITER, OR THE COMPUTER HAS A PROBLEM., BUT if some of the spark plug is not having a spark then most likely the cable, the terminal post inside the distributor cap is the trouble

HOW TO REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY NUT

1. Determine first the rotation of your crankshaft pulley whether it is counterclockwise or clockwise .  Remove anything blocking the pulley so you can see the pulley while the engine is being cranked.
2. put a white mark on the face of the pulley so that it would be easy to see the movement of the pulley.
3. remove all the spark plug cables.  Have someone start the engine while you look at the movement of the white mark if  clock or counter clockwise.  If clockwise then....

a.  insert the necessary socket size for that nut.
b. use a handle of the socket that would extend up to the ground level.
c. position that on your right side but it must be inclined.
d. make sure the spark plugs cable are removed, start the engine by jerking.  the nut is expected to get loose.

If this is not effective. this is the second technique.

1.  remove two spark plugs , either 1 and 4 or 2 and 3.
2.  insert a long stick to the spark plug hole.
3. rotate manually the pulley until the stick is at the lowest ebb or it sink to the fullest.  then stop rotating
4. get a small size of plastic rope. Insert that to the two hole of the spark plug untill it gets full.
5. insert now the socket wrench, and try to loosen the nut.

While you are trying to loosen the nut,   the piston will went up and will  compress the plastic rope and the piston cannot anymore continue because it is being blocked by the rope that is the time when the pulley will stop rotating that will give way for you to loosen the nut without the pulley moving.

the 3rd technique.

1..By removing the starter
2, the ring gear of the flywheel can be accessed.
3. put a small but strong box wrench  to the teeth of the ring gear and the other end of the of the box wrench  to the bell housing as a contra force.
4.  loosen now the crankshaft pulley nut

REMOVAL OF PILOT BEARING INBED FLYWHEEL

 It is difficult to remove this pilot bearing because you cannot hammer it out on the reverse or opposite side.
Even you are going to discard it and simply break it , it is likewise difficult.

 The easiest and no tears way of removing it as follows:

  Simply force to insert a piece of newspaper or paper to the center of this pilot bearing to the fullest.  Then hammer that center of the pilot bearing several times using a round bar or shaft  exactly the size of the center hole of the bearing  , the air pressure as a result of hammering it several times will force that pilot bearing to come out.

ALTERNATOR FUNCTIONAL TESTING

How does the alternator operates.

Let me first discuss the electro mechanical operation of an alternator using a separate voltage regulator.

An alternator has a winding called the ROTOR, since it is a winding there are two ends , one will received a positive current from battery and the other goes to the ground or body of the car. This rotor rotates within an the center of a winding again called the STATOR.  Some stator windings has three ends, each of this ends goes to the positive side of  a diodes, that means , there are three diodes , of course one side of the diode is grounded. .  There are another three diodes where its negative end is connected to the positive of the previous diode mentioned.  The positive side of these additional diodes is connected to each other or lump into one terminal,  this terminal now goes to the battery  to charge that battery.

When the rotor rotates a magnetism occurred and electricity is produced by the STATOR in each three terminal  but on AC mode, the last three diodes mentioned above rectifies that AC power into DC power , the car battery being DC. 

HOW DOES IT OPERATES.

There is a voltage regulator with two separate windings , each of which has contact points that swings to a two fixed metal  contact .  this regulator has  SIX  terminal wires that goes outside  broken down as ff:

   FIRST WINDING 
     1.  came from a fixed metal  where one side of the movable contact point of one of the winding is temporarily connected.   This wire goes to the fuse box.
      2.  came from another fixed metal which is grounded ,in tandem with the one mentioned in number 1 above. This wire goes to the negative side of the ROTOR winding of ALTERNATOR.
     3.  came from the other end of the resister mentioned in no. 1. that wire goes to the positive side of the ROTOR WINDING
      
SECOND WINDING

     4.  came from a fixed metal which is grounded where one side of the movable contact is temporarily connected.  That wire goes to  a bulb or pilot light to supply that bulb with negative.
      5.  came from the end of a winding , that wire goes to one terminal of the STATOR WINDING  in the alternator.
   6.   came from the a fixed metal in tandem with the one in no. 4, that wire goes to the fuse box also.

INTERNAL WIRING CONNECTION OF THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR
    1. the wire mentioned in number 2 above , is connected to the other end of a FIRST WINDING.
   2. The other end of the first winding goes to the fixed metal mentioned in number 4.
  3. the other end of the secondary winding mentioned in no.5 goes to the fixed metal contact mentioned no. 2.
 -     
 THREE WIRES OF THE voltage regulator is connected to the alternator , ONE to positive side of ROTOR,  SECOND to negative of ROTOR, 3RD, goes to the STATOR WINDING.

 when the ALTERNATOR ROTATES,  the movable contact of the SECOND WINDING transfers to the other side of the fixed metal, it transfers because of the positive current supplied from the AC produced by the STATOR. The bulb looses a negative supply so it becomes dead,     the rotor produces magnetism and the STATOR produces  AC current , passes thru the rectifier diode and out as DC current then goes out to the battery for charging
There will come a time that the battery will be fully charged with high current  carried by the wire from fuse box that goes to the fixed metal of the SECOND WINDING where the positive of the winding of the FIRST WINDING  is connected .
In this instance the movable contact of the FIRST WINDIng transfers to the negative side of the fixed metal contact., in this case the wire that goes to the positive of rotor is converted to negative hence the charging process is cut.  If the battery looses that high current due to usage, that contact point goes back to positive. then the cycle continues..


HOW TO TROUBLE SHOOT THIS CHARGING SYSTEM

IF AN AMPERE GAUGE and  VOLTAGE REGULAR ARE USED.
1.  the ampere gauge  fails to deflect indicative of no charging.

A QUICK CHECK CAN BE USED AS FOLLOWS:

1.  run the engine, , get a short wire, insert that wire on the center of the six terminal socket located on the side of the plastic socket has a notch or curved side.
2. scratch the other end of the wire to a good ground, if with spark, meaning, your rotor winding is ok. if no spark , your rotor  winding is cut open or sorted.
3. if  with SPARK,, diode, or loose connection of the three terminal ends of the STATOR is open.
4. remove the single wire connected to the rear end of the alternator, START THE ENGINE, get a piece of wire, connect the wire end to the rear end nut of the alternator, and the other end, scratch to a good ground, if no spark , then DIODE is dead or STATOR winding is burned or loosely connected.


    How to trouble shoot.  CHECK FIRST IF THE ALTERNATOR BELT IS CUT OR SLIDING.
1.  remove the nut in the alternator where the wire that goes to the ampere gauge, or to the fuse , or to ignition switch, or to positive battery  is connected. Remove also the wire in it. Start the engine, get a one foot wire, connect to the NUT mentioned  then scratched the other end to a good ground ,  there must be a  spark , IF SO, your alternator is producing electricity , of no spark,  so  maybe the wire you just remove is cut open, or your ampere gauge is defective.....NO SPARK. then maybe the stator not producing current. .
2.  remove the voltage regulator,  at its back , using the six terminal socket , locate the wire that comes from the rear end of alternator MARK  N , (neutral), start the engine, using the one foot wire, insert that wire to the terminal of the N  and one end scratch to a ground,  there must be spark,  If so, your ROTOR IS OK,  if no spark, maybe the ROTOR winding is open or shorted or some loose connection on STATOR  WINDING.  
3. RUN the engine ,   while the voltage regular is removed , locate at the back,  the wire that came from the end of the resistor that goes to the ALTERNATOR   MARK   F.  Using that short wire, insert it on the six terminal socket for F , scratch it to a ground , NO SPARK , maybe the fuse is busted, or the wire on the six terminal socket got loose.
4. check for fuse busted or loose connection on the six terminal socket,,,, if  fuse is busted then replace it and run the engine again. , if still not charging.
5. go back to no. 2 above, if  still NO SPARK  then the ROTOR WINDING IS OPEN OR SHORTED, replaced  it.
6 if in no. 4, the fuse is OK , then disassemble the alternator and check if STATOR WINDING is burned or it has loose terninals.  if all OK., then
7. check all diode for an OPEN terminal.
   

    IF A PILOT LIGHT IS USED AND A ELECTRONIC VOLTAGE REGULATOR IS USED.

The pilot light stay lighted.
 1.  Check if alternator belt is cut or sliding., if not.
 2.  while engine is running , open any lights,  remove one terminal of the battery cable,  if the engine still runs, and light stays lighted ,that means the alternator is still producing current to supply the battery .   In this case the engine gets electric power from the alternator.  There is only  something wrong with the wiring of the pilot lamp.

IF YOUR BATTERY IS PRESUMED WORKING WELL AND YET THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK FASTER (  after using it )  BUT WHILE USING A FUULY CHARGED BATTERY , THE ENGINE STARTS THEN SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR.

1. Get a voltmeter,  set it to 50Volts DC.
2. Get a good battery, Start the engine .
3. Open the headlights, the aircon, Measure the voltage being produced by the battery using the voltmeter
4.  If the reading falls below 12, your alternator is defective. The reading should be at least 13 and above.