HOW TO REPLACE AIRCON BELT

NOW TO REPLACE AIRCON BELT

THIS PROCEDURE IS EXACTLY FOR THE 1999 CRV MODEL

THIS BELT'S IS STRETCHED BY A TENSIONER PULLEY SO THAT  IT MAY BE CONTROLLED TO THE CORRECT TENSION .

THIS TENSIONER HAS TWO BOLTS:
      FIRST BOLT  IS  ABOUT 3 INCHES IN LENGTH AND IS ABOUT 10mm in diameter .  Its head is squared sized 7mm , it is a full threaded nut, it has a lock nut , 10 mm in size.   this bolt is the one that makes the tensioner pulley to move up and down the pulley itself so that the belt attained the correct tension or to lessened the tension of the belt respectively.  This is situated almost 2 inches away from the pulley in your left.  .
     SECOND BOLT  IS ABOUT 2 inches in lenght , its head is also squared type having a size of 12mm.  this bolt is the one that fixed the pulley itself so it will not moved.. this is situated at almost the bottom of the pulley on your left.

PROCEDURE

1.  to gain access to these two nuts, remove the power steering plastic container by just pulling it upward.
2.  remove the nut located a top the power steering box,  12mm
3.  remove the nut at the side of the power steering box  located at the lower side at the back of the power steering.
4. have that power steering box hanged upward so you can gain access to the two nuts.
5. loosen the SECOND BOLT that holds the tensioner pulley.
6.  loosen the LOCK NUT of the FIRST BOLT counterclockwise 
7.  loosen the FIRST BOLT , counter clockwise, the pulley will now moved downward.and make the belt to got loose.
8.  remove the belt from the compressor and the crankshaft pulley .
9.  go to down under the front of the engine,  there is a big clamp ( about 4 inch in length) it has two nuts 17mm , remove these nuts. this big clamp will not be totally removed because it is attached to the engine but there will be a space to be opened so that you can pass that belt out of its place.
10.  insert now the new belt to the top of that big clamp.
11.  re installed the two 17mm bolts.
12.  wrap around the belt to the crankshaft pulley, to tensioner pulley and to the aircon pulley.
13.  tighthen the first bolt , untill the belt is of the same tension as before, or about 1/4 inch play.
14.  tighten the  second bolt.
15.  put back the power steering belt if it was displaced.
16.  slightly tighten the 12mm nut of the power steering box located at the top side .
17.  slightly tighten the 12mm nut of the power steering box located at the side of the steering box.
18.  get a small steel bar and try to insert it to the body of steering box and pull that bar outward so that the power steering pulley attained its  right tension,  THEN TIGHTHEN NOW THE NUT AT THE SIDE AND THE TOP SIDE .
19.  put back the power steering fluid container.
20.  start the engine,  run it at about , 2000 rpm, if there is squeaking sound , maybe the belt is still loose.
21.  while engine runs, try to maneuver the steering wheel, if it is hard to steer, then the steering belt is loose, increase its tension.

HOW TO REMOVE YOUR CALIPER PISTON

HOW TO REMOVE THE WHOLE CALIPER AND FINALLY REMOVE THE BIG PISTON INSERTED ON THE CALIPER.

THIS PISTON LOOKS LIKE A SMALL MUG OR CUP ABOUT 2 1/2 INC IN RADIUS OR DIAMETER , INSERT IN THE CALIPER HOLE THE SIZE OF IT.

THIS HOLE HAS AN O RUBBER O RING ON ITS SLOT TO PREVENT THE FLUID FROM LEAKING AT THE EDGE OF THE PISTON.

THIS CALIPER IS WHERE THE BIG PISTON IS PLACED.   THIS PISTON IS THE ONE THAT MOVES BACK AND FORTH THE MOMENT YOU PRESS THAT BRAKE PEDAL  TO PRESS THE DISC TO THE SURFACE OF THE BRAKE DISC TO STOP IT FROM ROTATING  AND FINALLY STOPPING  THE CAR.

THIS PISTON MOVES FORWARD OR OUTWARD BECAUSE OF THE PRESSURE OF THE BRAKE FLUID ENTERING THE CALIPER AND THIS PISTON STOPS OUTWARD MOVE BECAUSE IT TOUCHES THE FACE OF THE DISC PAD.  THIS PISTON MOVES INWARD OR BACKWARD AFTER YOU HAVE RELEASED YOUR BRAKE PEDAL.

DUE TO DIRT, RUST THAT ENTERS THE  PISTON,  THERE WILL COME A TIME THAT  THE PISTON WILL STUCK UP AND HENCE IT EITHER WILL NOT MOVE OUTWARD OR IT WILL NOT MOVE BACKWARD .

IF IT WILL NOT MOVE OUTWARD DUE TO DIRT OR BEING STUCK UP , YOU WILL HAVE A WEAK BRAKE.

IF IT WILL NOT MOVE BACKWARD, THAT MEANS THE PISTON IS ALWAYS PRESSING THE DISC PAD TO THE DISC BRAKE  AS IF YOU ARE ALWAYS IN A BRAKING MODE AND YOU WILL EXPERIENCE  TWO THINGS.

                  1.   THE CAR SEEMS TO  HESITATE TO MOVE FASTER.
                   2.   THE  DISC BRAKE WILL OVERHEAT  AND YOU WILL NOTICE IT IF YOU TOUCH YOUR  WHEEL RIM , IT IS TOO HOT.

TO CHECK  THIS TWO SITUATION,  TRY TO LIFT THE ONE SIDE OF THE WHEEL ( IF FOUR WHEEL DRIVE , LIFT ALSO THE REAR OF FRONT TIRE) .    MANUALLY ROTATE THE WHEEL, IF IT'S DIFFICULT TO TURN IT MANUALLY THEREFORE  THE PISTON IS STUCK UP CLOSE. TRY THIS TO ALL THE FOUR WHEELS.

HOW TO REPAIR OR CLEAN OR FREE UP THE CALIPER AND THE PISTON.

1.  REMOVE THE TIRE,  MAKE SURE THAT SIDE OF THE WHEEL IS  SAFELY SECURED BY ANOTHER SUPPORT STAND, DO NOT RELY ON YOU JACK ITSELF.
2.  REMOVE THE NUT OF THE CALIPER ITSELF , IT IS NORMALLY A 14mm nut, easily visible and accessible,  normally there are two nuts securing this caliper,  one nut is screwed on its mother assembly and the other is not screwed on the mother assembly but is only a shaft ( no thread) so that this caliper can be swing back and forth.   be cautious because the threaded nut may be at the top or at the bottom of the caliper ( car design differs to each other ).  you might try to forcefully remove the nut like one where in fact it is the swinging shaft and you cannot loosen it.  try to  push back the rubber booths of this nut to uncover if  it is a shaft or nut.  if it is a nut,  that means the other nut is the one that you have to loosened and removed.
3. after removing the nut,  swing down or up this caliper assembly.
4.  press continually your brake pedal until the PISTON  has totally come out of its shell
5.  the piston may not totally get out of the its shell, so it would be necessary to use manual force using a tinsel or  a plier or a hammer etc etc.
6.  if it come out,  the brake fluid will come out also, so to save that fluid  put a small container .
7.  get a vice grip , clip it to the brake hose ,  remove now the brake hose bolted to the rear of the caliper.  remove also the bleeder valve.
8.  try to move outward or swing  this caliper which is secured by the shaft mentioned above ( not bolted anyway)
9.  remove now the caliper assembly by forcing the shaft to come out..
10. clean the piston using soap, or  kerosene , by using thin sand paper to remove any rust.
11.  remove the  O  RING  placed  in this  caliper hole. Clean also the big hole where this piston is positioned ,  using a thin sand paper to remove any rust and make its wall to be smooth.
12. clean also the slot where the O RING is placed.
13.  put the new O RING TO THE SLOT .
14.  PUT THE GREASE ON THE WALL OF THE CALIPER AND ALSO ON THE FACE OF THE PISTON ITSELF.
14. a.  put the rubber booths on the slot around the piston.
15.  INITIALLY POSITION THE PISTON TO THE MOUTH OF THE CALIPER.  NORMALLY YOU CANNOT INSERT THAT PISTON BY MERE USING HAND PRESSURE.
16.  GET A BIG PIPE AND A HAMMER.
17.  PUT THAT PIPE INSIDE THE HOLE OF THE PISTON THEN HAMMER THE OTHER END OF THE PIPE TO PUSH THE PISTON TO THE  CALIPER HOLE.  MAKE SURE THE PISTON IS IN PERFECTLY STRAIGHT POSITION  when hammering it.
18. put the  booths to the slot provided in the piston.
19.  PUT BACK THE CALIPER ASSEMBLY .
20.  PUT BACK THE HOSE, AND THE BLEEDER
21, REMOVE THE VICE GRIP.
22.  PUT FLUID ON THE BRAKE MASTER CONTAINER CUP.
23.  INSTALL THE WHEEL.
24.  START THE ENGINE AND TRY TO PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL, IF YOU FEEL THE BRAKE PEDAL IS SPONGY THAT MEANS THE AIR ENTER THE SYSTEM.
25.  YOU HAVE TO BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM.


HOW TO BLEED THE SYSTEM.

1.  START THE ENGINE, HAVE SOMEONE PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR SAY 5 TIMES THEN TELL HIM TO STAY HIS FEET ON A BRAKING POSITION BY NOT LIFTING HIS FOOT.
2.  LOOSEN THE BLEEDING NUT,  A BUBBLE IS EXPECTED TO COME OUT.
3.CLOSE THE BLEEDER NUT,  HAVE THE PEDAL BE PUMP AGAIN THEN STOP PUMPING , THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER.  PUT FLUID AGAIN ON THE MASTER CUP.
4. DO THIS UNTIL A FULL FLUID COME OUT OF THE BLEEDER AND AT THE SAME TIME THE BRAKE PEDAL DOES NOT GOES TO THE FLOOR AND NO SPONGY FEELING.

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DISC PAD

OF COURSE,  EVERY VEHICLE MAY HAVE DIFFERENT CONSTRUCTION OR DESIGN ON ITS  CALIPER BRAKE ASSEMBLE BUT  DISC TYPE BRAKE HAS THE SAME  PRINCIPLE.

THE  REPLACEMENT FOR THE DISC PAD IS A VERY SIMPLE JOB.

1.  MAKE SURE YOU CAR IS IN HANDBRAKE POSITION IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE FRONT CALIPER .., IF YOU ARE REMOVING THE REAR CALIPER , PLACE THE SHIFTING LEVER TO ANY GEAR POSITION..
2.  REMOVE  THE  TIRE WHERE THE DISC PAD IS LOCATED .
3.  NOW ,  THE CALIPER TYPE BRAKE SYSTEM HAS TWO PARTS:

                A.  THE FIRST PART IS BOLTED BY TWO NUTS (  17 mm ) TO THE BASE PLATE
                B THE SECOND PART IS  BOLTED TO THE FIRST PART BY ONE BOLT ( 14mm) either at the top of the first part or at the bottom of the first part, so it depends on the design. THE other end of this second part HAS A SHAFT ABOUT  4 INCH IN LENGHT AND IS INSERT TO THE FIRST PART. IT LOOKS LIKE A BOLT , SO DONT TRY TO USE  A  WRENCH TO REMOVE IT BECAUSE IT IS NOT A NUT, IT IS ONLY A SHAFT..   THIS SECOND PART IS WHERE THE  BIG PISTON IS PLACE .  THE SECOND PART IS THE ONE THAT SECURED THE TWO DISC PAD IN ITS POSITION.

4.  REMOVE THE NUT  OF THE FIRST PART THAT IS BOLTED TO THE FIRST PART  ( 14mm or 17mm ) located either at the top or at the bottom. This bolt is covered by a rubber booths.
5.  you can now SWING THE SECOND PART.  REMEMBER THAT THE  ONE END OF THE SECOND PART IS NOT BOLTED BUT IS ONLY SECURED BY A SHAFT TO THE FIRST PART.

6. HAVING REMOVED THE NUT OF THE SECOND PART, USING A BIG SCREW DRIVER , INSERT IT TO THE OPEN HOLE OF THE SECOND PART AND TRY TO DISPLACE OR SWING  IT FROM THE FIRST PART.   THIS SECOND PART WILL NOT BE TOTALLY REMOVED FROM THE FIRST PART BECAUSE IT IS STILL SECURED BY A SHAFT THAT IS WHY YOU CAN SWING IT BACK AND FORTH.

7. AFTER DISPLACING THE SECOND PART, OR SWINGING THE SECOND PART ,   THE DISC PADS WILL NOW BE EXPOSED.
8.  THIS IS SIMPLY INSERTED ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DISC BRAKE ITSELF.
9.   SIMPLY REMOVE THAT TWO DISC PAD  IT BY HAND,   NOTE OF ITS  ORIGINAL POSITION.
10.  REPLACE IT BY THE NEW DISC PADS.  
11.  SWING  BACK THE SECOND PART AND PUT BACK THE NUT.


THERE IS A POSSIBILITY THAT THE WHEN PUTTING BACK THE SECOND PART , YOU MAY FIND IT DIFFICULT TO EXACTLY PUT BACK THE SECOND PART BECAUSE THE PISTON END IS TOUCHING THE DISC PAD OR THE DISC PAD IS BLOCKING THE THE PISTON END.

THIS MAY HAPPEN BECAUSE THE PISTON END HAS  LITTLE BIT MOVED OUTWARD BECAUSE OF THE DISC BECAME THIN .

IF THIS HAPPENS , DO THIS.

1.  GET A  C CLAMP .
2.  INSERT THE FIXED END OF THE C CLAMP  AT THE BACK OF THE SECOND PART AND THE MOVING THREADED PART ON THE INNER END OF THE PISTON.
3.  GET A  VISE GRIP ,  CLIP IT HARD TO THE BRAKE HOSE  .LOOSEN THE BLEEDER NUT OR EVEN THE  BIG NUT OF THE BRAKE HOSE BOLTED TO THE SECOND PART, THIS IS TO MAKE THE PUSHING OF THE PISTON BACK  EASIER BECAUSE THE AIR CAN EASILY COME OUT
4.  TURN NOW THE C CLAMP CLOCKWISE TO PUSH BACK THE PISTON .
5.  PUT BACK THE NUT OF THE HOSE, AND THE BLEEDER VALVE.
6. REMOVE THE VISE GRIP.
7.  PUT BACK THE SECOND PART TO ITS ORIGINAL POSITION.